Step-by-Step Guide to Drafting a Basic Bodice Block

Step 1: Gather Essential Supplies

Gather the necessary supplies: pattern paper, a flexible ruler, a pencil, measuring tape, a French curve, and a right-angle ruler.

Step 2: Take Accurate Measurements

Take precise measurements of the bust, waist, and hips. Additionally, measure the shoulder width, back width, and desired bodice length.

Step 3: Draw the Basic Bodice Shape

On the pattern paper, draw a vertical line representing the center front (CF) and another line perpendicular to it representing the center back (CB). Use the bust, waist, and hip measurements to mark these points on the CF line.

Step 4: Create Bust, Waist, and Hip Lines

Draw horizontal lines for the bust, waist, and hip levels. Label these accordingly and mark the measurements from Step 2 along these lines.

Step 5: Draft the Bodice Sloper

From the bust line, measure half of the bust measurement plus ease (typically 1-2 inches) divided by 4. Mark this measurement from the CF line, forming the bust dart. Use a French curve to create a smooth armhole curve from the shoulder point to the bust point.

Step 6: Design the Armhole

Determine the armhole depth by measuring from the shoulder point down the arm, marking this distance on the side seam. Use the French curve to connect the underarm point to the side seam.

Step 7: Shape the Neckline

Decide on the neckline style (e.g., round, V-neck, boat neck) and mark its shape accordingly. Use the French curve to create a smooth transition from the shoulder to the neckline.

Step 8: Create the Waist Dart

For the waist dart, measure half of the waist measurement plus ease (usually 1-2 inches) divided by 4 from the CF line towards the side seam. Create a dart leg from this point, sloping towards the bust point.

Step 9: Finalize the Back Bodice

Repeat the process for the back bodice, adjusting measurements as needed for a proper fit. The back bodice might have a waist dart or a shoulder dart, depending on the desired fit and design.

Step 10: Check and Refine

Double-check all measurements and lines for accuracy. Make necessary adjustments for symmetry and proper shaping.

Step 11: Add Seams and Notches

Add seam allowances to the drafted block. Typically, ⅝ inch is added to all edges except the center front and center back. Include notches for matching seams during construction.

Step 12: Test the Bodice Block

Cut out the drafted bodice block on muslin fabric, sew it together, and try it on to ensure a good fit. Make any final adjustments based on the fitting.

Step 13: Document and Store

Label your bodice block with all relevant measurements and store it for future reference. This block will serve as the basis for creating various garment designs.

Crafting a basic bodice block requires precision and attention to detail. Following these steps should help you create a foundational pattern block that can be adapted for different styles and designs.